Tuesday, August 17, 2010

A Drive to the Country

When a Cuencano friend offered to show us the area where he grew up right outside of today's Cuenca, we jumped at the chance.  Always fun to see something new.

The small township of San Joaquin is known for its fresh vegetables.  Good black dirt for a thriving farm community.
Many of the crops are sold through the Co-op and the other markets in Cuenca and beyond.



Rows and rows of purple cabbage.












Check out the size of this cabbage!  It could easily feed a whole extended family.

  One of the blue City buses ends its route at the town, but we explored small areas beyond, into the Caja Mountains, too.  The altitude in places is higher than Cuenca, so felt much more chilly.  We were glad we had our jackets.









This irrigation ditch brought back some memories of our ranch in Oregon!

There are crank-style 'gates' and a schedule of when the folks can take their share of the water (just like at the ranch).








Working in the fields.




The ditches are fed by the Yanuncay River (one of the 4 rivers that run through Cuenca, too.)  Reminds us of the Applegate River in southern Oregon.

This picture of the river shows a family washing carrots for market.






Bridge over the river.





Some sights reminded us of the Wild West.  Some were more 'Early California/Mission' style. 
Some of the houses have been renovated and updated...a little of everything.













































































Cute children, and it looks like supplies for a project or 2.
A colorful trumpet tree.












This small structure at the top of the picture is for a family's pig.  It is some distance from the family's house (on purpose!)


This is the entrance to the 9 hole Golf Course we passed along the way.










Potatoes, we think.











What a fun day!

Saturday, August 14, 2010

Real Estate and Estate Planning (Ecuadorian style)

We receive notes quite frequently asking for 'advice' on finding a longer term rental or finding real estate to buy here in Cuenca.  We've posted info on the blog before, but thought we should post again.  It's an important topic.

First, we can't give 'advice'.  Even though Rich was a licensed real estate broker for many years in California and Oregon, we're not attorneys or realtors here.  But, we can share some of our experiences and observations.

The first and most important item to remember...  The real estate business (to rent or buy) in Ecuador is very different than in the US.  No MLS as we know it back in the States. No licensing of realtors, as we know in the US.  Anyone can decide to be in the real estate business.


You just can't assume anything and you have to ask a ton of questions as you go. 

Yes, some realtors speak English, but sometimes you need to also understand the 'culture' and how things get done.  Sometimes speaking Spanish is not enough to get you through all the processes.  Speaking the same language is a good thing...but it's not the only thing to make a deal go well.

Some realtors have a car, some hire a taxi to show you around...some will meet you at the property.  Some realtors charge up to $100/day to show you properties.  Sometimes the fee is applied to the sale/rent...be sure to ask and get that commitment in writing.

It helps if you have a list of what you're looking for...view or not, porch or not, modern or not, apt/condo or house, neighborhood preferences, price range, security, parking, storage/out-buildings, fireplace?, garden? etc  If you have a list for the realtor, it kind of hones it down and doesn't waste your time. 


Some realtors will still try to show you the places that don't fit your criteria...but, stick to your guns and be firm. You're paying for the tour.


If you plan to buy/renovate a property in the historic area, it can be a little more complicated.  The historic Commission ("Patrimonial") needs to approve the work, usually before the work is begun.  It can get frustrating if you're in a hurry. 

Remember...Cuenca is a UNESCO City and it's the Commission's job to protect and preserve the nice, older buildings (inside and out).  Ask lots of questions if that's your plan. 

If you don't get the right approvals, or if you don't understand the 'rules', the Commission can padlock your property and stop the job until it all gets resolved.

Remember this picture of the Adobe renovation?  By the time a project like this one is completed, you will have interfaced with inspectors, officials, reviewers, approvers, attorneys and workers involved in the project. 

Although not absolutely necessary, we recommend you consider hiring an attorney as early as possible.

The attorneys do the property searches, write/finalize contracts and help deal with all the filings and fees.  They can also provide language translations so that you know what you're signing. 

We think it's a good idea to have an independent legal representative, not one associated with the realtor or builder, so there's no conflict of interest.  Ask for a list of all legal fees and all additional fees related to the transaction prior to going forward.

An attorney will line up a meeting with a Notary to make it all official. 



Yes, you can buy property without an attorney and close quickly...but, we don't recommend it.  Sometimes realtors/sellers will try to talk you out of getting an attorney involved.  Some see attorneys as 'deal breakers' and 'time wasters'...sometimes for good reason!  Better to know all the legal facts and get an expert, legal opinion so there are no surprises.  It's worth the money and the time to 'memorialize' all the promises and understandings that have been made to you by sellers, realtors, builders, vendors, attorneys and others.  When everything is in writing, it's 'real' and not heresay.  Memories can be short here, as they can be in the US.

If you choose to buy a new condo/apartment outside the historic area that is still under construction, be sure to ask about the Deed.  It can take up to 2 years or longer after the construction completion to obtain a Deed.  Although there may not be a Deed for you to review at the time of purchase,  there may be a builder's application for a Deed on file with the City of Cuenca.  Ask the builder/seller for a preview and a copy of the builder's application to the City  that describes the condo details.  If you don't see and agree with the preview, you could be surprised later that what you actually bought isn't what you thought you were buying. 

Another important item to discuss with an attorney here is the estate and inheritance laws.  Very different from the US.  Your US Will may not work in Ecuador.  Ecuadorian law can over-ride your US Will.  By law, your property may go to other family members  rather than your surviving spouse.  Family members could force a sale.  Be sure to ask an attorney so you're comfortable if you're planning to buy property here.

We just can't stress this step enough...being informed upfront may save you time, money and head and heartache later.

Some folks will tell you it's 'customary' or 'typical' to pay a buyers commission, or other processes are 'customary' ...  be sure to ask if a topic is 'customary' or the law.  Again, an attorney can help.  Could make a huge difference. 

 If you agree to pay a commission, be sure to determine the purchase  price on which the commission is based and hold to it.  Some realtors may come back and try to collect additional monies on improvements or additions that you have negotiated with the builder/seller after the purchase price of the unit has been established.  Every time you hear the words 'customary' or 'typical', it is generally not the law, and it's an area that can be negotiated. 


For renting longer term places, there are web sites out there and realtors, but we often hear that some of the best places are rented by word of mouth.  Folks 'pound the pavement' looking for signs in windows in the neighborhoods they like. 


Some have found ads in the newspapers, too.  If you don't speak Spanish, you can hire a translator at about $10/hour who can read the ads for you and may be able to arrange a showing. 

Some doormen/guards in larger buildings may know of places in their building for rent/sale, too.  Worth asking.  But, ask everyone you come across...shop keepers, friends, restaurant staff, etc.


Yes, you may find really cheap places to rent, but many will be unfurnished and may not be in areas you'd like to live.  Remember...'unfurnished' can mean no hot water heater, no appliances, no window treatments, no light fixtures...we've even heard of one older apt in town without water and without electricity.  Utilities and condo fees may be included, may not be.  Be sure to ask so you know what's included. 

One friend assumed that his preferred internet access was available in the new rental.  He found out it wasn't available after moving in.  Another question to ask and go to the source...don't take the landlord's or the realtor's word for it, if it's really important to you. 

Ask about what's included in a sale, too.  Get everything in writing. Do your 'due diligence' with vendors and landlords...Be sure to ask about painting the place if that's important....  Check it all out before signing and moving in.


If you find the perfect place, consider leaving a deposit before you leave the site.  Money talks here. We've heard of a couple who lost out on their perfect place as they didn't know to leave a deposit.  They went back to the US to wire money and thought they had the place, based on a handshake and a conversation and a quickly drafted 'agreement' (not notarized or reviewed by an attorney).

One friend took a day to get money out of the Bank for a deposit and advance rent...In that short time of a day, the apt was rented to another party with cash on the spot.

If you give a realtor, an attorney, a builder or anyone else any money, get a receipt and make notes.  Keep a log of money out and any promises made that day.

We don't want to be negative or dissuade you, just want to share this info to help make it easier for you.   The main thing to remember is that things are different here...it's Ecuador!  Ask lots of questions and don't assume anything.  Better to not feel rushed....  better to not cut corners.  If any aspect of a deal doesn't feel right to you, be ready to walk away.  The train isn't leaving the station.



Good properties come and go here and there will always be another 'perfect' place for you.  Can be confusing and frustrating and yes, it can seem to take 'forever'!, but most everything can be workable....in time...

All of this written 'in our humble opinion'.....Hope this helps.


Happy hunting!


Thursday, August 12, 2010

Earthquake!

Wow! Got our attention. There were 2 quakes this morning.   Rock and roll!


We're ok.

Rich was leaving the porch going into the kitchen with a cup of coffee when it hit. The porch twisted and turned. Building rocked about 6-8 inches. Loud! A few things in the kitchen fell off shelves. Door jam/wall hit him hard in the back, spilled the coffee...

Sleepy head was still in bed. 1st one woke me up. By the time 2nd one hit, MUCH stronger than the 1st. I was UP, getting shoes on... Rich was up those stairs so fast, about 4 at a time...

We think there might have been another one, small, about 4 am, too...felt like someone was hitting the bed...we thought it was our imagination.

What a ride!

Early reports say that the earthquake was centered in the southern Andes and registered about a 7.0.
We may have felt it more as we're on the 10th floor.

But, we're ok.  Thanks for checking on us. 

==Nancy

Update:  6.9.  http://earthquake.usgs.gov/earthquakes/recenteqsww/Quakes/us2010zwa5.php
But all quiet now.  Another beautiful day in the Andes.

Monday, August 9, 2010

Cooking with Chicken Feet

That's what I'm doing today  (This is Nancy typing.)

I'm not going to post any pictures, so you can rest and relax.  You can find pictures by googling, if you'd like.  Yes, a little gross by US standards!  The feet look like little hands....complete with finger nails...

I'd been reading about the very best chicken stock ever!  using the feet.  And, then I bought a big sack of feet at a market for under a buck, such a deal.  Then I thought...why not?  I'm an adult, right?.........I can do some 'personal growth'.  I'm not too old to learn, right?  And...I could control the salt, leave out the sugar, MSG and other mystery ingredients by making my own broth from scratch.  Getting back to the basics.  Worth a shot, don't you think?  I mean, if some of my friends and family can do it, I can, too.  Right???

This is the 2nd experiment with the feet.  The first batch was pretty good.  I can see some of you cringe and I can hear some of you gag!  But, really, it was good.  A good, clean taste, different from commercial broths, and I like to think it was so much more healthy for us, too.


Have to tattle on myself...When I made the first batch of broth, I had to wear rubber gloves just to touch the feet.  And, my gag reflex kept kicking in.  Yes, this cook from a US City (never mind that we lived in rural Oregon for 10 years)  prefers to think that meat comes directly from the supermarket, all cleaned up and packaged with no yucky looking parts!  No heads, no feet, a nice, tidy package of 'extra stuff' that used to hit the trash.  No way was I going for unfamiliar parts that I couldn't identify or some of those parts that are 'exotic'. It's one thing to be used to seeing ALL the parts in the markets here;  it's quite another to actively decide to use and eat some of those parts.  Not knowingly, at least.

But...  these feet are cheap for lots of them.  The feet broth gets very high marks from chefs all over the world.  And,  I figured, it's time to 'go global'...branch out a bit.  I kept thinking ...I can do this!  Besides, my Great Gramma from the Old Country cooked and ate all the parts....  Many around the world still do.  It's 'normal'...

Have to admit...this time, I am so proud of myself!   No gagging!  No rubber gloves!  A huge step in the right direction.  Yeah!  Progress!
But, also have to admit that when I added the veggies I carefully covered up the feet and there was 1 head, so I had to cover the eyes, too, with some parsley.  Cooking with these parts doesn't mean I  have to look at them as the pot simmers ...maybe next time...

My Ecuadorian friends think I'm such a wimp.  Yes, indeed, I fully admit to my wimpiness.  We've had a good laugh.  Every Senora here just deals with it.  Nothing to it.  Friends tell me I'm doing good with this 'cultural shift'.  They say I just might be ready for roasted cuy (guinea pig) soon...  Hmmm...maybe, maybe not!  One step at a time, please.

Next cooking experiment will be beef broth...with cow feet...Wow, those feet are big and nasty looking! 
But, I'm determined...Wish me luck. 

As one of my sisters used to say when we were kids (just to gross me out):  To eat a cow, first you take off all the hair...  oh!  (Thanks, Cathy, for the memories...I think....)

PS -- You can buy the meat parts that you're used to in the US at SuperMaxi, Ital-Deli, the Co-op, as well as the People's markets.  All of these places carry those 'other' parts, too. 
You can buy commercial broth mix at SuperMaxi (like Safeway).

Happy cooking,
==Nancy  (still stirring the pot!)

Sunday, August 8, 2010

Art and friends

Meet new friends Gil and Deborah from San Francisco.  Pictures from a recent feast at Tiestos with Barbara and Howard.

Deborah is in the coral with the flower;  Gil is right behind Nancy.  Deborah and Gil are now on their way back home to pack and plan...we're really looking forward to welcoming them back when they make the 'big move' here later this year.

Yes, we stuffed our faces at Tiestos once again and had a wonderful time.















At a nearby table, we were happy to run into our friend Patricia that night.  Here she is, with the chef.  Tiestos is definitely a popular place!















More pictures of  Deborah and Gil ...one more cup of good coffee before heading home...








































Gil and Deborah have a blog, too:
http://castles-in-cuenca.blogspot.com/



Our Master Gardener friends will enjoy this...We've been working on the rooftop terrace gardens at the Fragata rentals.  Sprinkler systems are all in and working. 

We're finding citrus trees and flowering plants here that will do well on the deck.   Nothing like playing in the dirt!






We ordered the hand-painted, clay pots from the pottery place behind the La Cuadras buildings on Av. La Mar.

A family-run business and the daughter did the paintings...so pretty!








When Rich was looking for the new plants for the new pots, he was especially charmed by a little one 'helping' his Grandpa.  The child was loading and 'transporting' some plants by tricycle.  The pots were about as big as he was.  A hard job, but he was making it work.




























More pictures to share...

Here's a recent picture of the roadwork at the major thoroughfare, Av Simon Bolivar.  We think this street's closure is one of the reasons traffic has been especially crowded in town.  Traffic has been diverted around the construction to other streets.  You can see there is progress from earlier pictures, and we see more progress each day we pass by...it WILL open again soon!














One more picture of some new street art.  It's painted on the walls around some construction...we love it!  Hummingbirds are some of our favorites.


Monday, August 2, 2010

Christmas is Coming

 Our computer counter tells us we've been in Ecuador now for 517 days!  However, we're celebrating our 1 year official, approved residency this week!! We thank our lucky stars each day we're here. 
 
As we review the tasks checked off and done, as well as the tasks still left to do, we have been thinking of  more 'give back' opportunities...

As we read the various blogs and websites, we have found many ways to 'give back' to our new Country we call *home*... Many groups are sponsored by churches, schools, government and the private sector.   Individuals are right in there, too. There are volunteer and monetary opportunities year-round.   Lots of ways to help the families.  Just a little time or money can make such a huge, positive difference in the lives of others. 

You all have seen it before.  We're continually amazed at how far a small donation, or a few hours volunteering, goes toward the happiness and success of a child. 

So -- here is our shamelessly early request for your 'charity' dollars...Here's the pitch....


===
As you are also thinking about how to spend your 'charity' dollars this Holiday Season (as well as throughout the year), we hope you consider joining us in contributing to one of our favorite children's events:

Our family at the Coast, Bob and Roxanne, sponsor a Christmas Holiday Party for the local children.
Here is their blog entry right after last year's event.  Want to see lots of happy kids with Papa Noel?  Guaranteed to put a smile on your face.  Go here:

http://bobnrox.squarespace.com/journal/2009/12/23/the-kids-christmas-party-couldnt-have-been-better.html

Christmas 2010 will be their 3rd party for the kids in their coastal community. Last year there were 125 kids and 75 moms, and a lot more are expected this year. Which means...more donations are needed so no child is turned away. 

Bob and Rox are already hard at work planning for the Party.  A donation of school supplies came in just recently for the children...take a look:
http://bobnrox.squarespace.com/journal/2010/7/6/the-kids-christmas-party-gets-a-mega-boost-in-july.html

But lots to still do... donations will be used for the huge shopping trips coming up.  Bob and Roxanne plan to start shopping for the gifts next month. 

For last year's mega shopping spree in Cuenca, go to:

http://bobnrox.squarespace.com/journal/2009/9/21/christmas-shopping-in-september-just-trying-to-get-a-jump-on.html

The 'getting ready and getting organized' pics from last year are here:

http://bobnrox.squarespace.com/journal/2009/12/13/christmas-party-countdown.html


Animal crackers, candy, little wrapped gifts for the boys and girls.  Most of these children have never received a wrapped gift.  Last year, there were Pretties and dollies for the girls and toy cars and trucks for the boys.  Stuffed animals and sports equipment and more.  Bob and Rox also gave little 'token' gifts to the Mom's.  And, this year there are school/learning gifts, too. 

Many parents in their community struggle to just feed their families...and get the money together for school books and supplies.  Thanks to the generous donation of school supplies this summer, it will be easier for some for the kids to stay in school and learn.  But, we think there can never be too many school supplies...so,  donations will help add even more to the gift collection.

Bob and Rox also provide lunch at the Christmas party. Some of the donations will go to the 'picnic budget'.   Last year, each child and Mom enjoyed a hot dog and some of Rox's famous potato salad and something fun to drink.  This menu is definitely a treat for the kids!

There is also a 'budget'  for color photos of each child receiving his or her gift from Papa Noel. Where cameras are scarce, parents don't have the opportunity to take treasured pictures of their children. As we all know, as parents and grandparents, those pictures are priceless!

How to contribute?  PayPal donations can be made to bobnrox@gmail.com, or if you don't have PayPal, contact them and they will send you an alternative method for contributing.

As it has often been said before, sometimes it takes a village...

Thanks for your consideration of this charity venue.